The recent evolution in California Chardonnay has led to a plethora of terrific wines to recommend. These include elegant, vibrant and distinctive examples that express terroir and age gracefully. But this storyline needs more publicity—it’s been difficult to penetrate the understanding of this evolution among wine lovers who are still stuck thinking Chardonnays are candied and oaky. (And truthfully, many supermarket versions still are.) This week’s Tasting Highlights features Chardonnays that speak to this new trend. Even when they showcase hints of butter, spice and toast, the wines are still vivid, with juicy acidity.
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